I’m Coming Yarn Store!!!!!!!

I believe everyone who knits or crochets can always safely say “I need more Yarn!” Now you may only have a few skeins or you may have boxes full ( that’s me hahah) but you will always need more, want more, crave more!!!

Each project you embark upon calls for a different color Yarn, Yarn type, amount of skeins, thread count and so on! Yesterday I Knit a callilily flower and I needed white ,green and a darker yellow. Well everyone who uses yarn always has plenty of white!and I have plenty of green but a dark mustard yellow is rather hard to come by in your normal stash! But I went searching high and low ( my room,my craft room, and the attic ) and I finally found some! It was in the attic!( don’t judge me lol).

So I was very happy ……..and then I saw it! A whole box of yarn I had totally forgotten about!!!!!! That’s when I danced a little happy dance ( I even hugged a few skeins). Light yellow, pink, blue, green, beige…………however , the yellow is the sparkly kind!!!! Nnnnnnooooooo!!!! I wanted to make daffodils but you can’t make a sparkly daffodil 🌼 it simply won’t do!

Now then, after I have filled you all in on my yarn adventures, it is with a full and happy heart that I hear the yarn store calling my name!!!!! So off I go on my next yarn adventure!

~Crafty Lady

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Zinnia Flower free Crochet Pattern

IMG_1330Zinnia Pattern

chain 2 leaving 12” beg tail
pattern is worked in the round
Row 1: 6 sc in second st from hook
Row 2: working in back loops only, 2 sc in each st around (12 sc)
Row 3: working in back loops of Row 2, sl st in next st, ch 10, sl st in same st, repeat around until you have 12 large petals
Row 4: Working in front loops of Row 2, sl st in next st, ch 8, sl st in same st, repeat around until you have 12 medium petals
Row 5: Working in front loops of Row 1, sl st in next st, ch 6, sl st in same st, repeat around until you have 6 small petals
Finish off weaving in all loose ends on the back side of the flower or use to affix flower to pin back or other projects.

Orchid Crochet Flower

IMG_1329IMG_1328Orchid
Skill Level: Easy
Materials and Tools
2 colors of LB Collection Cotton Bamboo: (A) Magnolia #098, (B) Cherry Blossom #102 OR Persimmon #135
Hook: 4.00mm (size G-6 U.S.) or size to obtain a firm gauge
Tapestry needle
Special Abbreviation
Htr (half treble crochet): Yo 2 times, insert hook in stitch and draw up a loop (4 loops on hook), yo and draw through 2 loops (3 loops on hook), yo and draw through 3 loops (1 loop left on hook).
Instructions
Back Petals:
With A, ch 5, join with sl st in first ch to form a ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, working in ring, (sc, hdc, 2 dc, hdc) 3 times. Join with sl st to first sc of rnd.
Rnd 2: *(Sc, hdc) in hdc of rnd below, (dc, htr) in first dc, (htr, dc) in 2nd dc, (hdc, sc) in next hdc, sl st in sc; rep from * twice.
Rnd 3: *Ch 1, sl st in sc of rnd below, sc in hdc, (hdc, dc) in dc, ch 1, (htr, tr) in first htr, (tr, htr) in 2nd htr, (dc, hdc) in dc, sc, sl st; rep from * twice. Fasten off.
HINT:A

The Orchid’s Front Petals include two larger side petals (1 and 3) and one smaller central petal (2), as you can see in Photo A. At this point, Petal 2 has 9 sts (2 ch, 5 hdc, 2 ch). To finish Petal 2, you will work into each and every one of those 9 sts.
Front Petals:
With A, ch 5, join with sl st in first ch to form a ring.
Petal 1, Row 1 (RS): Ch 2, dc and hdc in ring; ch 2, turn.
Petal 1, Row 2: (3 hdc) in first hdc, (2 dc) in dc, (4 hdc) in top st of turning ch; ch 1, turn.
Petal 1, Row 3: Sc, hdc, sc, (hdc, dc) in next st, (2 tr) in each of next 2 sts, (dc, hdc) in next st, sc, hdc, sc in top st of turning ch from last row. Working down the side of the petal, sl st in 2nd st of turning ch of last row, then sl st 2 in side of hdc from the first row. Sl st in ring.
Petal 2 (RS): Ch 2, 5 hdc in ring, ch 2, sl st in ring.
Petal 3: Work as for Petal 1. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
HINT:B

You’ll begin the last phase of Petal 2 by stitching into the ring between Petals 1 and 2, indicated by the pink arrow in Photo B. The remaining instructions tell you which stitches to make for each of the 9 sts of Petal 2.
I’ve separated out the instructions for this part of the Orchid, with one line for each original st of Petal 2. Anytime you are confused about crochet instructions, you may find that writing out the instructions by hand will help you understand them better.
To complete Petal 2, with B, sc in ring between Petal 1 and Petal 2.
In 1st ch of Petal 2: (sl st, ch 5, sl st in 3rd ch from hook, 2 hdc)
In 2nd ch of Petal 2: (2 hdc, ch 1, sl st)
In 1st hdc of Petal 2: sl st
In 2nd hdc of Petal 2: (sl st, ch 2, 2 hdc)
Make the long picot detail: ch 5, sl st in 3rd ch from hook, sl st, ch 1, sl st in next ch
In 3rd hdc of Petal 2: (3 dc)
Make the other long picot detail: ch 6, sl st in 3rd ch from hook, sl st, sk 1 ch, sl st
In 4th hdc of Petal 2: (2 hdc, ch 2, sl st)
In 5th hdc of Petal 2: sl st
In next ch of Petal 2: (sl st, ch 2, 2 hdc)
In last ch of Petal 2: (2 hdc, ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook, ch 2, sl st)
Sc in ring between Petal 2 and Petal 3. Fasten off.
Finishing:
Weave in ends except the long tail for sewing. Block pieces, allowing Petal 2 to keep its 3-D character. Center the Front Petals over the Back Petals, and arrange so that Petal 2 falls between two of the back petals. Sew the pieces together.

Aster Crochet Flower Pattern

IMG_1326Flower
Leaving a long end, use color A to make a slip ring.
1st row (RS): ch 3, dc 4 in ring, pull end to close ring. 5 sts.
2nd row: ch 3, dc 2 in each of next dc 3, dc 1 in top ch of ch 3. 8 sts. Fasten off.
3rd row: Join color B in front strand of top of last dc, [ch 5, sl st in front strand of next dc] 6 times, ch 5, sl st in front strand of top ch of ch 3. 7 loops. Fasten off invisibly.
4th row: With RS facing, fold loops forward and join color C in back strand of end dc of 2nd row, [ch 8, miss 1 ch, sc 1 in next ch, hdc 1 in next ch, dc 1 in each of next 3 ch, hdc 1 in next ch, sc 1 in next ch, sl st in back strand of next dc] 7 times, ending sl st in back of top ch of ch 3 of 2nd row. Fasten off invisibly.
Stem
RS facing, insert hook in slip ring at base and pull yarn through. Ch 10, miss 1 ch, sl st in each of 9 ch. Fasten off invisibly.

Poinsettia Crochet Flower pattern

IMG_1325Poinsettia

Skill Level: Experienced

Materials and Tools
2 colors of LB Collection Cotton Bamboo: petal color (A) Persimmon #135, leaf color (B) Snapdragon #174
Hook: 4.00mm (size G-6 U.S.) or size to obtain a firm gauge
Gold or yellow embellishment for flower center, such as beads, sequins, small buttons, or embroidery floss OR a few yards of LB Collection Cotton Bamboo Gardenia #170
Tapestry needle

Special Abbreviations
Htr (half treble crochet): Yo 2 times, insert hook in stitch and draw up a loop (4 loops on hook), yo and draw through 2 loops (3 loops on hook), yo and draw through 3 loops (1 loop left on hook).
Sl st-picot: Ch 3, sl st in base of chain.
Small petal: Ch 7, sl st in 3rd ch from hook; working down ch, sc, dc, (dc, sl st) in next st, sl st in last ch.

I wanted the Poinsettia to look natural, and natural poinsettias are not symmetrical. That’s why you see different sizes of petals, distributed unevenly around the center, so please read the instructions carefully.

Instructions
Flower: With B, ch 4, join with sl st in first ch to form a ring.
Rnd 1:Ch 2 (counts as hdc), ch 2, *hdc in ring, ch 2; rep from * 5 times, join with sl st to 2nd ch of rnd. Fasten off B-7 hdc and ch-2 sp.

HINT:
Rnd 2 sets up Medium and Large Petals, which you will finish in Rnd 3. When you’re done with Rnd 2, it looks like a bunch of sticks radiating from the center (see Photo A). Save time by crocheting over the green yarn end and the beginning yarn end of the petal color. Find instructions for the Small Petal in “Special Abbreviations.”

Rnd 2: In any hdc of rnd 1, join A with sl st, make a Small Petal, sl st in same hdc.
In first ch-sp (Medium Petal): *Sl st in ch-sp, ch 9, sc in 4th ch from hook; working down the ch, 2 hdc, sc, ch 2, sl st in same ch-sp.* Ch 1.
In 2nd ch-sp (Large Petal): **Sl st in ch-sp, ch 10, sc in 4th ch from hook; working down the ch, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, ch 2, sl st in same ch-sp.** Ch 1.
In 3rd ch-sp (Medium Petal): Rep bet * above, sl st in next hdc, make a Small Petal, sl st in same hdc.
In 4th ch-sp (Medium Petal): Rep bet * above, sl st in next hdc, make a Small Petal, sl st in same hdc.
In 5th ch-sp (Large Petal): Rep bet ** above, ch 1.
In 6th ch-sp (Medium Petal): Rep bet * above, ch 1.
In 7th ch-sp (Large Petal):Rep bet ** above. The Medium and Large Petals look like sticks. The next rnd finishes the Medium and Large Petals.

HINT:
Rnd 3 finishes the Medium and Large Petals. Find instructions for slst-picot and htr in “Special Abbreviations.” In Photo B, I’m a little over half-way finished with Rnd 3.

Rnd 3: Fold the Small Petal to the front, out of the way, ch 2 behind it.
First petal (Medium): *working up the side of the petal, 2 sc in ch-2 sp, hdc, dc, 2 htr, (htr, 2 dc, sl st-picot, 2 dc, htr) all in ch-3 loop at end of petal. Working down the other side of the petal, 2 htr, dc, hdc, 2 sc in ch-2 sp. Ch 1.*
2nd petal (Large): **working up the side of the petal, 2 sc in ch-2 sp, hdc, dc, 3 tr, (tr, 2 dc, sl st-picot, 2 dc, tr) all in ch-3 loop at end of petal. Working down the other side of the petal, 3 tr, dc, hdc, 2 sc in ch-2 sp.** Ch 1.
3rd petal (Medium): Rep bet * once. Fold Small Petal to the front, out of the way, ch 1.
4th petal (Medium): Rep bet * once. Fold Small Petal to the front, out of the way, ch 1.
5th petal (Large): Rep bet ** once, ch 1.
6th petal (Medium): Rep bet * once, ch 1.
7th petal (Large):Rep bet ** once.

HINT:
Rnd 4 sets up an unevenly-spaced round of Large Petals-more stick shapes that you can see peeking out from behind the first round of petals in Photo C. They are attached in the ch-spaces between the petals of Rnd 3.

Rnd 4: Fold previous petals to the front, and work this rnd behind them. Behind the Small Petal of rnd 1, sl st in ch-2 sp, ch 10, sc in 4th ch from hook; working down the ch, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, ch 2, sl st in same ch-2 sp. *Ch 3, sl st in next ch-1 sp between petals. (Ch 3, sl st in ch1-sp between petals, ch 10, sc in 4th ch from hook; working down the ch, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, ch 2, sl st in same ch 1-sp) twice; rep from * once-beg of 5 unevenly-spaced Large petals.

Rnd 5: Ch 3, **working up the side of the petal, 2 sc in ch-2 sp, hdc, dc, 3 tr, (tr, 2 dc, sl st-picot, 2 dc, tr) all in ch-3 loop at end of petal. Working down the other side of the petal, 3 tr, dc, hdc, 2 sc in ch-2 sp. ** (Ch 2, sl st in next ch-3 sp) twice. Ch 2, rep between ** and ** once. Ch 3, rep between ** and ** once. Rep from # once. Sl st in next ch-sp. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

HINT:
The Poinsettia Leaf is crocheted separately and sewn behind the flower petals. The small black squares in Photo D show where to insert your hook for the first part of Rnd 2 of the leaf, in the original chain sts.

Green Leaf: With B, ch 10. Rnd 1: Sc in 4th ch from hook, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc, ch 2, rotate so you are looking at the free loops of the original ch.
Rnd 2:Working in the free loops of the ch, 2 sc, hdc, dc, 2 tr; (tr, 2 dc, sl st-picot, 2 dc, tr) in ch-sp at tip of leaf; working down other side of leaf, 2 tr, dc, hdc, 2 sc, sl st in ch-2 sp at base of leaf. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Finishing:
Pin down the tips of the petals to an ironing surface to keep them straight, and then block.

Weave in ends, except for the long tails for sewing.

Tack petals together from the back, about halfway up the petals, taking one or two stitches in each petal edge and skimming the backs of the crochet stitches only.

Sew green leaf to the underside of the flower. Sew 3-5 beads, buttons, sequins, or French knots to the center of the flower, OR crochet a flower center embellishment as below.

HINT:
In Crochet Garden, the Poinsettia instructions suggest beads or buttons to decorate the center of the flower. Here’s another idea: With Gardenia or desired color, *ch 5, hdc in 3rd ch from hook, sl st in each of next 2 ch.* Ch 1, rep bet *s, ch 1, rep bet *s. Fasten off, leaving a long end for sewing. Photo E shows the finished centerpiece. Hold this piece at the wrong side of the Poinsettia’s center. Push the picots up here and there between the spokes. Use the long yarn end to tack in place from the back.

Adwen Knit Cape

IMG_0246 Level of dif culty: intermediate to advanced This cosy and stylish cape is a large project in Blacker Classic Aran yarn, designed by Judy Furlong. While not dif cult, the garment has big cables and comes in several parts to be assembled, so needs attention to detail. It would be a good project to develop new skills in structured garments, but mainly it’s a lovely warm, attractive garment of cable and moss stitch panels, with saddle shoulders and a wonderful big cowl neck. It comes in ve sizes. If you want to try out the cable panel designs rst, you could consider a shawl or throw or even just a tunic … but this cape is well worth the work! Measurements To t bust: 86 (91-96, 101-106, 111-118, 123-128) cm, approximately 34 (36-38, 40-42, 44-46, 48- 50) inches Actual measurement at bust: 139 (145, 161, 178, 194) cm, approximately 55 (57,63, 70, 77) inches Hem circumference: 154 (158, 172, 188, 202) cm, approximately 61(62, 68, 74, 80) inches Length from nape to lower edge: 54 (54, 54, 64, 64) cm, approximately 21 (21, 21, 25, 25) inches Figures in brackets refer to larger sizes, where there is only one set of gures this applies to all sizes. Blacker Blacker Designs Designs Blacker Designs Materials: 16 (17, 19, 24, 26) 50g balls Blacker Classic British Aran – originally worked in gold, but this is a great opportunity to use olive, blues, oxblood or the natural shades as well! 1 pair of 6mm needles 40cm circular 6mm needle (for collar), or set of double pointed needles, or use “Magic Loop” (for collar) cable needle stitch markers row counter waste yarn or stitch holders (to hold sts) Tension/Gauge 20 sts and 21 rows to 10cm over combined textured sts, using 6mm needles 14 sts and 21 rows and over stocking stitch, using 6mm needles Use larger or smaller needles if necessary to obtain correct tension. Abbreviations st, sts = stitch, stitches k = knit, p = purl sl 1 = slip 1 st purl wise psso = pass the slipped stitch over tbl = through back of loops k2 (3) tog or p2 (3) tog = knit or purl the next 2 (3) sts together ssk = slip 1 st, sl 1 st, k2tog tbl decrease: work next two sts together wyif = with yarn in front wyib = with yarn in back RS = right side WS = wrong side LH = left hand RH = right hand pm = place marker sm = slide market (slide marker onto needle to maintain marker as work progresses) cn = cable needle Cable and chart stitch abbreviations Moss stitch = k1, p1 to last st, k1 cdd = sl next two sts (as if to k2tog), K1, psso make bobble = (k1, p1, k1) all into the next st, turn, p3, turn cdd Cable 6 back = sl 3 onto cn to back, k3, k3 sts from cn Cable 6 front = sl 3 onto cn to front, k3, k3 sts from cn 2/1 left cross = sl 2 to onto cn to front, p1, p2 from cn 2/1 right cross = sl 1 onto cn to back, k2, k1 from cn 2/1 left purl cross = sl 2 onto cn, hold to front, p1, k2 from cn 2/1 right purl cross = sl 1 to cn, hold to back, k2, p1 from cn Structure The cape has two main panels for the back and front, plus two side panels, and then the ared shaping is created by 4 tapered godets, set between the panels. Once the body has been worked, the panels are assembled and the shoulders are worked, to make a stylish snug t and then nally the collar is worked. Each of the four panels is a rectangle 23.5 (23.5, 26, 32, 34.5) cm, approximately 9 (9, 10.5, 12.5, 13.5) inches wide and 54 (54, 54, 64, 64) cm, approximately 21 (21, 21, 25, 25) inches long. The godets start at 15[16, 17, 18, 19] cm, approximately 6 (6.5, 6.75, 7, 7.5) inches wide and taper to nothing. Blacker Sheep Limited trading as Blacker Designs | Registered of ce: Pipers Court, Pennygillam Way, Launceston, Cornwall PL15 7PJ Telephone: +44-1566-777635 | email: enquiries@blackerdesigns.co.uk Page 1 This is a COPYRIGHT PATTERN for the use of Blacker Yarns and Blacker Designs customers. It must not be adapted and reproduced without permission, or used to make items for sale or knitting kits. Use is restricted to bona de customers or licensees of Blacker Yarns and Blacker Designs and to yarns made by The Natural Fibre Company.

Back Panel Using pair of 6mm needles, cast on 47 (47, 51, 59, 63) sts Setting panels The panels are set more widely as the sizes increase – the greater number of stitches is between the vertical green lines on Chart A, which shows the rst size. Rows 1 and 2 are given in full below and thereafter the designs rise vertically between the moss stitch spaces. Row 1 (Chart A, Row 1): k1, moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), moss st 12, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), p3, starting with p1, moss st 5, p3, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), moss st 12, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7) , k1 Row 2: P1, moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), k1 (1, 1, 3, 3), moss st 12, k1 (1, 1, 3, 3), k3, starting with p1, moss st 5, k3, k 1 (1, 1, 3, 3), moss st 12, k 1 (1, 1, 3, 3), moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), p1 Rows 3 & 4: Repeat last two rows Rows 5 to 104 (124): Work Rows 5 to 24 (inclusive of both) of Chart A, 5 (5, 5, 6, 6) times, working sts 3 and 4 1 (1, 2, 2, 3) times, sts 5, 18, 30 and 43 1(1, 1, 3, 3) times, and sts 44 and 45 1 (1, 2, 2, 3) times as established

Row 5: k1, moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), k3, starting with pD1,emsoisgs nstistch 6, k3, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3, p3, k2, make bobble, k2, p3, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), k3, starting with p1, moss stitch 6, k3, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), k1 Row 6: p1, moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), k1 (1, 1, 3, 3), p3, moss stitch 6, p3, k1 (1, 1, 3, 3), k3, p5, k3, k 1 (1, 1, 3, 3), p3, moss stitch 6, p3, k 1 (1, 1, 3, 3), moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), p1 Row 7: k1, moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), k3, moss stitch 6, k3, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), p3, make bobble, k3, make bobble, p3, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), k3, moss stitch 6, k3, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), k1 Row 8: as row 6 Row 9: as row 5 Row 10: as row 6 Row 11: k1, moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), k3, moss stitch 6, k3, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), p2, 2/1 right cross, 2/1 left cross, p2, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), k3, moss stitch 6, k3, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), k1 Row 12: p1, moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), k1 (1, 1, 3, 3), p3, moss stitch 6, p3, k1 (1, 1, 3, 3), k2, p2, k1, p1, k1 p2, k2, k 1 (1, 1, 3, 3), p3, moss stitch 6, p3, k 1 (1, 1, 3, 3), moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), p1 Row 13: k1, moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), cable 6 back, cable 6 front, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), p1, 2/1 right purl cross, k1, p1, k1, 2/1 left purl cross, p1, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), cable 6 back, cable 6 front, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), k1 Row 14: p1, moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), k1 (1, 1, 3, 3), k1, p1, k1, purl 6, p1, k1, p1, k1 (1, 1, 3, 3), k1, p3, k1, p1, k1, p3, k1, k 1 (1, 1, 3, 3), k1, p1, k1, purl 6, p1, k1, p1, k 1 (1, 1, 3, 3), moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), p1 Row 15: k1, moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), p1, k1, p1, k6, p1, k1, p1, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), 2/1 right cross, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, 2/1 left cross, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), p1, k1, p1, k6, p1, k1, p1, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), k1 Row 16: moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), k1 (1, 1, 3, 3), k1, p1, k1, purl 6, p1, k1, p1, k1 (1, 1, 3, 3), p2, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p2, k 1 (1, 1, 3, 3), k1, p1, k1, purl 6, p1, k1, p1, k 1 (1, 1, 3, 3), moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), p1 Row 17: k1, moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), p1, k1, p1, k6, p1, k1, p1, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), k3, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k3, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), p1, k1, p1, k6, p1, k1, p1, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), k1 Row 18: as row 16 Row 19: k1, moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), p1, k1, p1, k6, p1, k1, p1, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), 2/1 left purl cross, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, 2/1 right purl cross, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), p1, k1, p1, k6, p1, k1, p1, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), k1 Adwen Cape Back Panel Using pair of 6mm needles, cast on 47 (47, 51, 59, 63) sts Setting panels The panels are set more widely as the sizes increase – the greater number of stitches is between the vertical green lines on Chart A, which shows the rst size. Rows 1 and 2 are given in full below and thereafter the designs rise vertically between the moss stitch spaces. Row 1 (Chart A, Row 1): k1, moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), moss st 12, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), p3, starting with p1, moss st 5, p3, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), moss st 12, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7) , k1 Row 2: P1, moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), k1 (1, 1, 3, 3), moss st 12, k1 (1, 1, 3, 3), k3, starting with p1, moss st 5, k3, k 1 (1, 1, 3, 3), moss st 12, k 1 (1, 1, 3, 3), moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), p1 Rows 3 & 4: Repeat last two rows Rows 5 to 104 (124): Work Rows 5 to 24 (inclusive of both) of Chart A, 5 (5, 5, 6, 6) times, working sts 3 and 4 1 (1, 2, 2, 3) times, sts 5, 18, 30 and 43 1(1, 1, 3, 3) times, and sts 44 and 45 1 (1, 2, 2, 3) times as established Blacker Designs Blacker Designs http://www.blackerdesigns.co.uk Blacker Blacker Designs Blacker Designs

http://www.blackerdesigns.co.uk on the following 7 rows to leave 6 (6, 8, 10, 12) sts Blacker Blacker Designs Designs First 3 sizes only Row 114 (WS): k2tog, (k1, p1) 1 (1, 2) times, ssk to Last 2 sizes only Row 134 (WS): k2tog, k3tog, p1, (k1, p1) 1 (2) times, ssk to leave 6 (8) sts Break off yarn, slip sts on waste yarn and set aside for Left Front shoulder All sizes With RS facing, slip centre 17 (17, 17, 21, 21) sts onto waste yarn, p2tog tbl, pattern to end on the 14 (14, 16, 18, 20) remaining sts Right neck edge Maintaining pattern, decrease 1 st at neck edge on the following 8 rows to leave 6 (6, 8, 10, 12) sts First 3 sizes only Row 114 (WS): k2tog, (p1, k1) 1 (1, 2) times, ssk to leave 4 (4, 6) sts leave 4 (4, 6) sts Break off yarn, slip sts on waste yarn and set aside for Left Front shoulder Break off yarn, slip sts on waste yarn and set aside for Right Front shoulder Adwen Cape Row 20: as row 14 Row 21: k1, moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), p1, k1, p1, k6, p1, k1, p1, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), p1, 2/1 left purl cross, k1, p1, k1, 2/1 right purl cross, p1, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), p1, k1, p1, k6, p1, k1, p1, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), k1 Row 22: moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), k1 (1, 1, 3, 3), k1, p1, k1, purl 6, p1, k1, p1, k1 (1, 1, 3, 3), k2, p2, k1, p1, k1 p2, k2, k1 (1, 1, 3, 3), k1, p1, k1, purl 6, p1, k1, p1, k1 (1, 1, 3, 3), moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), p1 Row 23: k1, moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), cable 6 back, cable 6 front, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), p2, 2/1 left purl cross, p1, 2/1 right purl cross, p2, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), cable 6 back, cable 6 front, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), k1 Row 24: k1, moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), k3, starting with k1, moss stitch 6, k3, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), p3, k5, p3, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), k3, starting with k1, moss stitch 6, k3, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), k1 First 3 sizes only Rows 105 to 113: Work Rows 5 to 13 (inclusive of both) of Chart A Row 114: Work Row 14 of Chart A, decreasing 1 st at each end of row.. Break off yarn, slip the rst 4 (4, 6) sts on waste yarn and set aside for Right Back shoulder, the centre 37 sts for centre Back neck and the last 4 (4, 6) sts for Left Back shoulder Last 2 sizes only Rows 125 to 133: Work Rows 5 to 13 (inclusive of both) of Chart A Row 134: Work Row 10 of Chart B as follows: k2tog, moss st 4 (6), cdd (sl 2 sts off as if to k2tog, K1, psso), k1, p1, k1, p7, k1, p1, cdd, k1, p3, k1, p1, k1, p3, k1, cdd, k1, p1, k1, p7, k1, p1, cdd, moss st 4 (6), ssk, to leave 49 (53) sts Break off yarn, slip the rst 6 (8) sts on waste yarn and set aside for Right Back shoulder, the centre 37 sts for centre Back neck and the last 6 (8) sts for Left Back shoulder FRONT PANEL Work as for Back Panel to last 10 rows, ending after Row 104 (104, 104, 124, 124) Left Neck Edge Rows 105 (125) to 113 (133): maintaining pattern as set, Pattern 13 (13, 15, 17, 19), ssk, turn, p2tog tbl, pattern to end. Working on these sts only and maintaining the pattern, decrease 1 st at neck edge Blacker Designs Blacker Designs Blacker Designs

Last 2 sizes only Row 134 (WS): k2tog, (p1, k1) 1 (2) times, p1, k3tog, ssk to leave 6 (8) sts Break off yarn, slip sts on waste yarn and set aside for Right Front shoulder SIDE PANELS (make 2) Using pair 6mm of needles, cast on 47 (47, 51, 51, 55) sts Work from Chart A as for Back Panel to row 104 (124) Leave sts on waste yarn with yarn attached BACK GODETS (make 2) Note: Hollow Oak is the design over sts 19 to 29 and Rows 5 to 24 (20 row repeat) of Chart A Using pair of 6mm needles, cast on 33 (35, 37, 39, 41) sts Row 1: *k1, p1, repeat from * to last st, K1 Row 2: p2, *k1, p1, repeat from * to last st, p1 Rows 3 and 4: repeat Rows 1 and 2 Row 5: k1, p10 (11, 12, 13, 14), pm, pattern Row 1 of Hollow Oak (Row 5, sts 19 to 29 of Chart A), pm, p10 (11, 12, 13, 14), k1 Row 6: p1, k10 (11, 12, 13, 14), sm, pattern Row 2 of Hollow Oak (Row 6, sts 29 to 19 of Chart A), sm, k10 (11, 12, 13, 14), p1 Row 7: k1, purl to marker, sm, pattern 11 sts in Hollow Oak, sm, purl to last st, k1 Row 8: p1, knit to marker, sm, pattern 11 sts in Blacker Blacker Designs 11, 11) more times Next row (RS): k1, p2tog, purl to marker, sm, pattern 11 sts, sm, purl to last 3sts, p2tog, k1 Continuing to maintain Hollow Oak work as follows: Decrease 1 st at both ends of the following 12th row 4 (4, 4, 4, 3) times to leave 23 (25, 27, 29, 33) sts Decrease 1 st at both ends of the following 10th row 1 (1, 1, 1, 2) time to leave 21 (23, 25, 27, 29) sts Decrease 1 st at both ends of the following 8th row 3 (2, 0, 0, 0) times to leave 15 (19, 25, 27, 29) sts Decrease 1 st at both ends of the following 6th row 1 (1, 3, 1, 0) times to leave 13 (17, 19, 25, 29) sts Decrease 1 st at both ends of the following 4th row 2 (4, 5, 8, 10) times to leave 9 sts Next row (WS): p1, k3, p1, k3, p1 Next row: k1, p7, k1 Next row: p1, k7, p1 Next row: k1, p3tog, p1, p3tog tbl, k1 Next row: ssk, k1, p2tog (3 sts) Break off yarn, leave sts on waste yarn .RIGHT FRONT GODET Work as for Back Godet and AT THE SAME TIME, when row 24 has been completed, pattern the rst 5 sts in moss st on the next 40 rows as follows: Row 25: p1, (k1, p1) twice, complete row as established Row 26: Pattern to last 5 sts, p1, (k1, p1) twice On decrease rows, work the shaping after the moss st section as follows: Rows 35, 47 & 59: p1, (k1, p1) twice, p2tog, complete row as established LEFT FRONT GODET Work as for Right Front Godet but pattern the LAST 5 sts in moss st as follows: Row 25: Pattern to last 5 sts, p1, (k1, p1) twice Row 26: p1, (k1, p1) twice, pattern to end On decrease rows, work the shaping before the moss st section as follows: Rows 35, 47 & 59: Pattern to last 7 sts, p2tog tbl, p1, (k1, p1) INTERIM MAKEUP Block out all pieces using measurements as a guide Steam very gently, allow to dry fully Hollow Oak, knit to last st, p1 Designs Rows 9 to 10 (30): Repeat the last two rows 1 (1, 1, Blacker Designs

Row 2: Pattern to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, k3, p5, k3, sm, ssk, pattern to end Continue established for 7 more rows ending with WS facing for next row, and decreasing once at beginning of Row 9 Row 10: k2tog, pattern to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, k1, p3, k1, p1, k1, p3, k1, sm, ssk, wyif sl 1p-wise onto the RH needle, turn Row 11: p2tog, pattern 11, p2tog tbl, wyib sl 1p-wise onto RH needle, turn Row 12: k2tog, pattern 11, ssk, wyif sl 1p-wise the RH needle, turn Rows 13 to 16 and onwards: repeat the last two rows, 2 (2, 3, 3, 4) more times to leave 15 sts Assembling Front, Right Front Godet, Right Side and Right Back Godet Next Row: Slip the 4 (4, 6, 6, 8) sts of Front Right onto RH (empty) needle (tip pointing to left when viewed from RS), then remaining 3 sts of Right Front Godet (tip pointing to left when viewed from RS), sl 1 purlwise the last of these Right Front Godet sts onto the LH needle (wyib), p2tog (last right front godet and rst saddle shoulder st), pattern 11 (Hollow Oak), sl 1 purlwise the remaining saddle shoulder st onto RH needle, then with RS facing, slip the 4 (4, 6, 6, 8) sts of Back Right shoulder onto LH (empty) needle, then the remaining 3 sts of Back Godet onto LH needle (tip pointing to right when viewed from RS) then return the last saddle shoulder st to the LH needle, p2tog tbl, wyib sl 1 p-wise onto RH needle, turn Next Row: As Row 12 Next Row: As Row 11 Next Row: As Row 12 Repeat the last 2 rows until 13 (saddle shoulder) sts remain. Break off yarn and slip sts onto waste yarn or stitch holder Shape Left Shoulder Slip sts of remaining Side Panel back onto LH needle (tip pointing to right on when viewed from RS) Rows 1 to 16: Work as for Right Shoulder to left when viewed from RS), then remaining 3sts of a Back Godet (tip pointing to left when viewed from RS), sl 1 purlwise the last of these Back Godet sts onto the LH needle (wyib), p2tog (last Back godet and rst saddle shoulder st), pattern 11 (Hollow Oak), sl 1 purlwise (wyib) the remaining saddle shoulder st onto RH needle, then with RS facing, slip the 4 sts of Left Front neck edge onto LH (empty) needle, then remaining 3 sts of Left Front Godet onto LH needle (tip pointing to right when viewed from RS) then return the last saddle shoulder st to the LH needle, p2tog tbl, wyib, sl 1 purlwise onto RH needle, turn Complete as for Right shoulder Blacker Blacker Designs Left Front Godet Designs Assembling Back, Left Back Godet, Left Side and Row 17: With RS facing, slip the 4 (4, 6, 6, 8) sts of Left Back Neck onto RH (empty) needle (tip pointing Collar Neck edge Replace neck sts on circular needle as follows: – with RS facing slip Centre Back 37 sts onto 6mm circular needle, followed by the 13sts of Left saddle shoulder, 17 (17, 17, 21, 21) sts at centre Front and 13sts of Right saddle shoulder, place round end marker First 3 sizes Round 1: join in yarn, (p1, k1) 25 times (Centre Back and Left saddle), pick up and knit 8 sts along left edge of Front, p1,(k1, p1) 8 times, pick up and knit 8 sts along right edge of Front, k1, (p1, k1) 6 times (Right saddle), to make 96 sts Last 2 sizes Round 1: join in yarn, (p1, k1) 25 times (Centre Back and Left saddle), pick up and knit 8 sts along left edge of Front, p1, k2tog, p2tog, (k1, p1) 5 times, k1, p2tog, k2tog, p1, pick up and knit 8 sts along right edge of Front, k1, (p1, k1) 6 times (Right saddle) to make 96 sts All sizes Round 2: *k1, p1, repeat from * to end of round Round 3: *p1, k1, repeat from * to end of round Rounds 4 to 7: repeat the last two rounds two more times Break off yarn, leave sts on waste yarn or spare needle Main collar Shape Right Shoulder Slip sts of one Side Panel back onto LH needle (tip pointing to right when viewed from RS) Row 1: maintaining the central Hollow Oak pattern, and maintaining the remainder of the pattern but decreasing at either side for 9 rows, work as follows: pattern 16 (16, 18, 18, 20), p2tog, pm, p3, k2, make bobble, k2, p3, pm, p2tog tbl (these last 13 sts form the saddle shoulder) pattern to end Blacker Designs

Rounds 1 to 44: Work rounds 1 to 24 of Chart B Collar twice, repeating the chart 4 times to complete the round Note: essentially this is Chart A with an extra 3 moss sts after st 18 to make 33 sts, rather than 30 sts Round 45 (shown as Round 25 on chart): *p2, ssk, p1, k1, ssk, (k1, p2togtbl) twice, k1, ssk, p2, ssk, k2, p2tog tbl, k2, ssk, k1, p1, p2tog tbl, repeat from *three more times to end of round, still 96 sts Leave sts on needle with approximately 2.5m yarn attached TO FINISH OFF Attaching collar to cape Slip neck edge sts onto a circular needle With RS of collar and cape facing, sit collar over cape (WS of collar against RS of cape) Hold both circular needles together, graft collar to cape Alternatively, three needle bind off on the WS of collar Darn in loose ends Sew seams omitting moss stitch section on Front godets, for arm/hand openings Gently steam shoulder seams over tailor’s ham or rolled towel Care advice: Hand wash in cool water using a liquid wool wash. Spin dry. Do not tumble dry. Spread to dry on a towel or drying rack, hand pressing garment to shape and correct size. Garments may be hung to dry on a hanger or over a clothes or ceiling airer once they have been spun, but with a hanger you may get hanger marks at the shoulders and a larger garment may “grow” if too damp before hanging; and with bars you should move a little several times to avoid marks. Stocking stitch and lace garments may bene t from light pressing (never press rib areas as they will lose their stretch!). Store folded.

Irish Rose ~ Crochet Flower

IMG_1321
1st round (RS) Using color A, make a slip ring, ch 2, sc 7 in ring, pull end to close ring, sl st to top ch of 2 ch. 8 sts.
2nd round ch 2, sc 1 in base of first ch, sc 2 in each of next 7 sts, sl st to top ch of 2 ch. 16 sts.
3rd round ch 4, [skip 1 sc, sc 1 in next sc, ch 3] 7 times, sl st to top ch of 4 ch.
8 ch-sp.
4th round [sc 1, hdc 1, dc 1, hdc 1, sc 1] in each ch-sp. 8 petals. Fasten off with color B.
Continue with B.
5th round Folding petals forward and working into the back of petals, sl st in the 2 strands that form the base of each of first 3 sts of next petal, [ch 3, sc 1 in base of dc at center of next petal] 7 times, ch 3, sl st in 3rd of 3 sl st.
6th round [sc 1, hdc 1, dc 3, hdc 1, sc 1] in each ch-sp. Fasten off with color C.
Continue with C.
7th round Folding petals forward and working into the back of petals as before, sl st in base of each of next 4 sts, [ch 5, sc 1 in base of center dc] 7 times, ch 5, sl st in 4th of 4 sl st.
8th round [sc 1, hdc 1, dc 5, hdc 1, sc 1] in each ch-sp. Fasten off.

ABBREVIATIONS / REFERENCES

dc = double crochet

hdc = half double crochet
ch(s) = chain(s)

st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch sc = single crochet

knittingbee.com

Crochet Flower~ Tradescantia

IMG_1320Using color A, chain 4, join with sl st into a ring.
Round 1 (RS): ch 3, [sc 1, ch 2] twice, with color B sl st to first of 3 ch. 3 sts and 3 ch sp. Cont with B.
Round 2: [ch 4, 3-st trc cluster in ch sp, ch 4, sc 1 in top of cluster, ch 4, ss in next sc of 1st round] 3 times, ending sl st in sl st of 1st round.
Fasten off.
Stitch explanation: 3-st trc cluster — join 3 trc into a cluster: * yrh twice, insert hook in ch-sp, yrh, pull loop through, [yrh, pull yarn through 2 loops] twice; rep from * twice, yrh and pull yarn through all 4 loops on hook.

 
ABBREVIATIONS / REFERENCES

ch-space = space previously made

sc = single crochet
ch(s) = chain(s)

st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
trc = treble (triple) crochet
yrh = yarn round hook

Knitting bee.com

Crochet Rolled Rose and Rosebud

IMG_1319Rose
Picot row Using A, ch 5, skip 4 ch, sc 1 in next ch, [ch 8, skip 4 ch, sc 1 in next ch] 6 times, turn. 7 picots.
1st row (RS) ch 1, sc 7 in first picot sp, [1sl st over 3 ch, sc 7 in next picot] 6 times. Fasten off. Do not turn, join B in first sc.
2nd row ch 1, [sc 1 in each of 2 sc, hdc 2 in each of next sc 3, sc 1 in each of next 2 ch, sl st over 3 ch between picots] 5 times. Fasten off.
Do not turn, join C in first sc.
3rd row ch 1, [sc 1 in each of 2 sc, hdc 1 in next hdc, dc 1 in each of next 4 hdc, hdc 1 in next hdc, sc 1 in each of next 2 sc, sl st over 3 ch between picots] 3 times.
Fasten off.
With smallest petals at center, roll and stitch.
Stem
Leaving an end approximately 4 inches long, join D at base of rose. Weaving end across between each ch, ch 11. Skip 1 ch, sc 1 in each of next 10 ch. Fasten off.
Sepals
Ch 5, wrap ch around stem and sl st in first ch.
1st round ch 1, sc 9 in 5 ch-sp, sl st in first sc. 9 sts.
2nd round ch 1, sc 1 in each sc, sl st in first sc.
3rd round ch 1, [sc 2 in first sc, sc 1 in each of next 2 sc] 3 times, sl st in first sc.
12 sts. Fasten off, leaving an end to stitch sepals to base of rose.

Rosebud (make 3)
Using A, work picot row as for rose until 6 picots have been completed, turn. Work 1st row, repeating instructions in brackets 5 times.
Fasten off. Roll and stitch to form rosebuds.
Stem
Using D, ch 12, sl st in base of first rosebud, turn and sl st in each of last 4 ch, ch 4, sl st in base of 2nd rosebud, turn and sl st in each of last 4 ch, ch 4, sl st in base of 3rd rosebud, turn and sl st in each of last 4 ch and first 8 ch.
Fasten off.
Sepals
Holding rosebud in left hand, wrap yarn once around finger and base of rosebud to form a ring.
1st round ch 1, sc 6 in ring, pull end to close ring, sl st in first sc.
2nd round ch 1, sc 2 in each sc, sl st in first sc. Fasten off. Finish 2nd and 3rd rosebuds in same way. Stitch sepals to base of rosebuds.

Clematis Crochet Flower

Petal (make 6)
Using A, cast on 8 sts.
1st row (RS) K2tog, k4, kfb, k1.
2nd row K.
Repeat 1st and 2nd rows 3 times, then work 1st row again.
Bind off knitwise.
Center
Using B, cast on 12 sts.
1st row (RS) Make a loop on each st: k1 but do not slip st from needle; bring yarn over between needles, take it clockwise around left thumb and back between needles; k st on left-hand needle again, slipping it off in the usual way; on right-hand needle slip 2nd st over st just made.
Bind off, working k2tog across the row.
Finishing
Leaving the center open, join petals to halfway along inner edges. Pinch a tuck at the inner corner of each petal and stitch. Join ends of center to make a ring and stitch it closed. Set center on petals.

Knitting bee.com

IMG_1318