What I Made !!! #3

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Well here is another installment of what I have made. Hence another present for my mom. I love to make and give presents can you tell haha.

This is another eyeglass case, I don’t have a pattern for you because I made it up…….again. The last eyeglass case was knitted but this one is Crochet! I have noticed I receive more likes on Crochet than knit so for all you Crochet lady’s out there this is for you!!

Made with pink 3 ply baby Yarn. Crochet hook 6. I used the basketweave stitch which is very simple to use and works up fast. When I had reached my desired length and width I Crochet a single stitch all the way around the square to make it easier when I put it together. From the pictures you should be able to see how it was put together.

If you would be interested in buying one if these let me know . I will be selling them for $15.00 plus shipping on Etsy as soon as I make more! I will add the site address to my online store later on so keep your eyes open!!! I will be doing them in white,pink, and yellow and purple . Along with many other designs.

Please comment and let me know what you think about my shop, the patterns I’m listing, any suggestions you have for me will be very welcome! Plus if you are looking for a certain pattern and need help finding it let me know and I will help you as much as I can!!

~Crafty Lady

Celtic Cable Knitting Pattern!

Ok here is your very first free pattern from me to you!!!! This beautiful Celtic Cable pattern can be incorporated into a sweater or hat or just make it into a scarf.

Making a scarf is a great way to learn and master a new pattern. You should never try to make a sweater from it right off the bat. You need to get your tension just right, especially for cables!

k = knit
p = purl
c4f = (cable 4 front)- slip 2 stitches to a cable needle and hold at the front of the work, knit 2, then knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.
c4b = (cable 4 back)- slip 2 stitches to a cable needle and hold at the back of the work, knit 2, then knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.
cr3l = slip 2 stitches to a cable needle and hold at the front of the work, purl 1, then knit 2 from the cable needle.
cr3r = slip 1 stitch to a cable needle and hold at the back of the work, knit 2, then purl 1 from the cable needle.
cr4l = slip 2 stitches to a cable needle and hold at the front of the work, purl 2, then knit 2 from the cable needle.
cr4r = slip 2 stitch to a cable needle and hold at the back of the work, knit 2, then purl 2 from the cable needle.

Panel of 24 Stitches

Row 1 (RS): (p2, c4b, p2) x 3

Row 2 and every even row: knit all knit stitches and purl all purl stitches

Row 3: p1, cr3r, (cr4l, cr4r) x 2, cr3l, p1

Row 5: cr3r, p1, (p2, c4f, p2) x 2, p1, cr3l

Row 7: k2, p2, (cr4r, cr4l) x 2, p2, k2

Row 9: (k2, p2) x 2, p2, c4b, p2, (p2, k2) x 2

Row 11: k2, p2, (cr4l, cr4r) x 2, p2, k2

Row 13: cr3l, p1, (p2, c4f, p2) x 2, p1, cr3r

Row 15: p1, cr3l, (cr4r, cr4l) x 2, cr3r, p1

once your done with row 15 go back to row 1 and just keep Knitting!

So there you go! Please let me know how you get on with this and if you have any questions!!! Also send a picture of your finished product!!

This makes for a perfect afghan panel.

pattern from Knitting-Bee.com

Welcome to Crafty Lady!

I’m so very excited to be writing my first blog post! This will be about just about any craft you can think of!

Crochet, knitting, cross stitch, tissue paper flowers, painting water colors and more!

I’ll be talking about the craft I’m working on now and adding pictures and even adding free crochet and knitting patterns along the way so stay tuned for that yay!

Also if you have any questions about a project your on and need some advice whether it’s what a word or symbol means in your knitting or crochet or what color to substitute another color in your cross stitch or even if your just stumped for ideas and need a friend to chat with about it, that’s what I’m here for!

So thank you if your reading this and please look back for more posts!

Waves Tote Knitted Bag!

IMG_1964Here you go!! A tote bag perfect for summer!!! Bring it to the beach or just put your yarn in it and you’ll get admiration for your skills wherever you go!!!

Designed by Grace Alexander.

Finished Measurements: 16” x 14” x 3”.

RED HEART® “Eco-CottonTM Blend”: 4 balls each 1340 Almond A, and 1870 Denim B. Circular Knitting Needle: 5.5mm [US 9] 36”.

4 stitch markers (make 1 a different color from others),

yarn needle. GAUGE: 14 sts = 4”; 18 rows = 4” in pattern with 2 strands held together. CHECK YOUR GAUGE. Use any size needles to obtain the gauge

NOTES Bag is made with 2 strands of yarn held together throughout. On Rounds 5 and 9, wrap yarn around the needle the number of times given; for example, for yarn over 3 (yo3), wrap yarn 3 times. These wraps are all dropped on next round. BAG Base With two strands A, cast on 56 sts. Work 24 rows in Garter st (k every row). Bind off. Weave in ends. Body Round 1: With two strands B, pick up and k56 sts along cast on edge, place marker, pick up and k9 sts across nearest short edge, place marker, pick up and k56 sts along bound off edge, place marker, pick up and k9 sts across last short edge, place marker of different color to mark beginning of round–130 sts. Round 2: Purl around. Round 3: Knit around. Round 4: Purl around. Round 5: * K6, [yo2, k1, yo3, k1, yo4, k1, yo3, k1, yo2, k6] 5 times, slip marker [k1, wrapping yarn twice around needle] 9 times, slip marker; repeat from * once more. Round 6: Purl, dropping all yo’s and double wraps from needle. Rounds 7 and 8: Repeat Rounds 3 and 4. Round 9: * K1, [yo2, k1, yo3, k1, yo4, k1, yo3, k1, yo2, k6] 5 times, yo2, k1, yo3, k1, yo4, k1, yo3, k1, yo2, k1, slip marker, [k1, wrapping yarn twice around needle] 9 times, slip marker; repeat from * once more. Round 10: Repeat Round 6. Round 11: Knit around. Round 12: Purl around. Cut B, join A. Rounds 13 – 20: Repeat Rounds 5 -12. Cut A, join B. Rounds 21 – 52: [Repeat Rounds 5 -12] 4 times, changing color at end of each repeat. Note: Markers can be removed at this point. Dec Round: With B, * [k6, k2tog] 7 times, k9; repeat from * once more–116 sts. Round 2: Purl around. Round 3: Knit around. Rounds 4 – 9: Repeat Rounds 2 and 3. Bind off purlwise. Weave in loose ends.

HANDLES

(make 2) With 2 strands A, cast on 9 sts. Work 80 rows in Garter st. Bind off.

FINISHING Referring to photo, attach one end of handle to second yo pattern in from edge on top pattern repeat and sew securely. Sew other end. Repeat for second end of handle.

I’m Back!!

O my dear Readers, I’m so sorry for this horribly long delay in posting more patterns and blogging but my life has been off the train track these past months! Went through cancer with my mom and she is set to have another surgery on August 2nd. So with taking care of her there has literally never been an opportunity to even write. Plus I was trying to get several online businesses up and running!

But anyway, here I am and I am about to post some new patterns. If you have a pattern you need but just can’t find it let me know and I’ll try my best to procure it for you!!!!

Have a blessed Day!

~ Crafty Lady~ (Mary)

 

Knitting stitches Abbreviations Explained

Definitions of Cable Knitting Pattern Symbols
Special Knitting Abbreviations
There are a variety of methods that can be used when it comes to knitting cables. There are also many ways for these particular pattern instructions to be represented by their abbreviations. In other words, there can be more than one abbreviation to represent the same cable. It is best to review the designer’s instructions as there will be a key or a guide defining those shown in the pattern.
The following are some of the more common cable expressions represented in their abbreviated code:
C2F = Cable 2 back or Cross 2 front – generally meaning slip the next two stitches onto a cable needle and hold at the front, knit the next stitch on the left hand needle and then knit the two stitches on the cable needle.
C2B = Cable 2 back or Cross 2 back – generally meaning slip the next two stitches onto a cable needle and hold at the back, knit the next stitch on the left hand needle and then knit the two stitches on the cable needle.
C3F = Cable 3 front or cross 3 front when you slip two stitches onto a cable needle and hold in front of work, knit 1 (k1) from left-hand needle, knit 2 (k2) from cable needle.
C3B = Cable 3 back or cross 3 back when you “slip one stitch onto cable needle and hold behind work, knit 2 (k2) from left-hand needle, knit 1 (k1) from cable needle.”
C4F = Cable 4 front or cross 4 front when you slip two stitches onto a cable needle and hold in front of work, knit 2 (k2) from left-hand needle, knit 2 (k2) from cable needle.
C4B = Cable 4 back or cross 4 back when you “slip two stitches onto a cable needle and hold behind work, knit 2 (k2) from left-hand needle, then knit 2 (k2) from cable needle.”
C6F is a six-stitch left-twisting cable and is accomplished when you slip three stitches (sts) onto a cable needle and hold in front of work. Knit 3 (K3) from left hand needle, then knit 3 (K3) from cable needle.
C6B is a six-stitch right-twisting cable and is accomplished when you slip three stitches (sts) onto a cable needle and hold behind work. Knit 3 (K3) from left hand needle, then knit 3 (K3) from cable needle.
C2FW = Cable 2 front or cross to front (on WS, or wrong side) and is accomplished when you “slip one stitch onto a cable needle and leave it at front of work (WS), pearl 1 (P1) from left-hand needle, pearl 1 (P1) from cable needle.
C2BW = Cable 2 back or cross 2 back (on WS, or wrong side) and is accomplished when you slip one stitch onto a cable needle and leave it at back of work (on RS, or right side), pearl 1 (P1) from left-hand needle, pearl 1 (P1) from cable needle.
Cr2R = knit the 2nd st on the LH needle, then the 1st, allow both stitches to drop.
Cr2L = knit the 2nd st on the LH needle through the back of the loop, then the 1st through the back of the loop, allow both sts to drop.
Cr3R = slip next st onto a cable needle and leave at back of work. K2, then P1 from cable needle.
Cr3L = slip next 2 sts onto a cable needle and leave at front of work. P1, then K2 from cable needle.
Cr4R = slip next st onto a cable needle and leave at back of work. K3, then P1 from cable needle.
Cr4L = slip the next 3 stitches onto cable needle and hold in front of work. P1 from left hand needle, then K3 from cable needle.
Cr4B = slip next st onto a cable needle and leave at back of work. K3, then K1 from cable needle.
Cr4F = slip next 3 sts onto a cable needle and leave at front of work. K1, then K3 from cable needle.
Cr5R = slip next st onto a cable needle and leave at back of work. K3, then P2 from cable needle.
Cr5L = slip next 3 sts onto a cable needle and leave at front of work. P2, then K3 from cable needle.
Tw2L = slip next st onto cable needle and leave at front of work, K1, then K1 from cable needle.
Tw2R = slip next st onto cable needle and leave at back of work, K1, then K1 from cable needle.
Tw2LW = twist Two Left – Slip 1 st to cable needle and hold in front on WS. K1, then knit the st from cable needle.
Tw2RW = twist Two right – Slip 1 st to cable needle and hold in back on WS. K1, then knit the st from cable needle.

What I Made #4

IMG_1420IMG_1418Dear Readers!

Another Installment if What I Made!! This Makes #4 in just a few days!! I have been in a knitting and crocheting streak lately!!! This makes Present #6 for my Mom! She will be so thrilled!!!

I might have said in the last What I Made article that the pink crocheted eyeglass case was my favorite so far but now I know this one is!!! It just makes me so happy just to look at it haha.

This is mostly knit but it has some crochet too. I used 2 small white buttons and a wooden toggle. The toggle was for the clasp and the buttons were for the 👀 eyes. I would have preferred black buttons but I didn’t have any small enough.(Have to go button shopping)

I did not have a pattern (again lol) but it turned out just how I wanted it!!! I used the Knitted Branch Cable Stitch for the owl! I could not find a pattern for an owl anywhere!!! I wanted just the owl part not a hat or scarf attached to it!!! I’m sure some of you have had the same problem so I will be adding a knit pattern of how to knit just an owl another time. So keep watching for that!!!!

So I used the garter stitch for most of it as it keeps the knitting nice and full instead of caving in when you use the stockinette stitch. The garter stitch kept it nice and full. I will be writing out this pattern so I don’t forget it and then I will share it with you!!!

Tell me what you think!!! And I will be making more of these to sell on Etsy or EBay!! Will add a link later!!!!

~Crafty Lady

Knitted Sailor Dress Pattern for little ones

IMG_1414SIZES To t chest measurement 12 mos 18 mos 2 yrs 19″ [48 cm] 21″ [ 53.5″] 231⁄2″ [59.5 cm] Finished chest INTERMEDIATE BACK **With MC and smaller needles, cast on 192 (216-240) sts. 1st row: (RS). K7. *Sl1K. K7. P1. K15. Rep from * to last 17 sts. Sl1K. K7. P1. K8. 2nd row: P8. *K1. P7. K1. P15. Rep from * to last 16 sts. (K1. P7) twice. Change to larger needles and rep last 2 rows until work from beg measures 6 (7-71⁄2)” [15 (18-19) cm], ending with a WS row. Next row: (RS). (Make Pleats). *Slip 8 sts onto 1st double-pointed needle. Slip next 8 sts onto 2nd double-pointed needle. Turn 2nd needle (WS of both needles are faced to each other). Align left-hand needle behind the two double pointed needles and knit tog rst st from each of 3 needles (3 sets of 8 sts will be worked tog) – Pleat made. Rep from * to end of row. 64 (72-80) sts. Next row: Purl, dec 2 (inc 0-inc 2) sts evenly across. 62 (72-82) sts. Next 2 rows: With A, knit. Next 2 rows: With MC, knit. Next 2 rows: With A, knit. Next row: With MC, knit. Next row: Purl. Proceed in Panel Pat as follows: 1st row: (RS). *P2 (3-4). Kfb. K2 (3-4). Kfb. Rep from * to last 2 (0-2) sts. P2 (0-2). 82 (90-98) sts. MATERIALS Patons® GraceTM (1.75 oz/50 g; 136 yds/125 m) Size Main Color (MC) Snow (62005) Contrast A Blue Bayou (62134) 12 mos 6 1 18 mos 7 1 2 yrs 8 balls 1 ball Sizes U.S. 3 (3.25 mm) and U.S. 5 (3.75 mm) knitting needles. Pair of size U.S. 5 (3.75 mm) double-pointed needles or size needed to obtain gauge. Cable needle. 3 stitch holders. ABBREVIATIONS: http://www.yarnspirations.com/abbreviations 30 sts and 38 rows = 4″ [10 cm] with larger needles in Panel Pat. INSTRUCTIONS The instructions are written for smallest size. If changes are necessary for larger sizes the instructions will be written thus ( ). Panel Pat (worked over 8 sts). 1st row: (RS). P2. C4B. K2. 2nd and alt rows: Purl. 3rd row: P2. K6. 5th row: P2. K2. C4F. 7th row: As 3rd row. 8th row: Purl. These 8 rows form Panel Pat. Alt = Alternate Cont = Continue(ity) C4F = Slip next 2 sts onto a cable needle and leave at front of work. K2, then K2 from cable needle. C4B = Slip next 2 sts onto a cable needle and leave at back of work. K2, then K2 from cable needle. Dec = Decrease(ing) Inc = Increase(ing) K = Knit K2tog = Knit next 2 stitches together Kfb = Knit into front and back of next stitch P = Purl Pat = Pattern P2tog = Purl next 2 stitches together P2togtbl = Purl next 2 stitches together through back loops Psso = Pass slipped stitch over Rep = Repeat RS = Right side Sl1k = Slip next stitch knitwise. St(s) = Stitch(es) WS = Wrong side Ssk = Slip next 2 stitches knitwise one at a time. Pass them back onto left-hand needle, then knit through back loops together Tog = Together 12 mos 18 mos 2 yrs GAUGE 22″ [56 cm] 24″ [ 61 cm] 26″ [66 cm]

2nd row: Purl. 3rd row: (Work 1st row of Panel Pat) 10 (11-12) times. P2. 4th row: Purl. Panel Pat is now in position. Cont in pat until work from beg measures 121⁄2 (14-15)” [32 (35.5-38) cm], ending with a WS row. Armhole shaping: Keeping cont of pat, cast o 3 sts beg next 2 rows. 76 (84- 92) sts. Dec 1 st each end of needle on next 3 rows, then on following alt rows twice. 66 (74-82) sts.** Cont even in pat until armhole measures 41⁄2 (5-51⁄2)” [11.5 (12.5-14) cm], ending on a WS row. Back neck shaping: Next row: (RS). Pat 20 (22-26) sts. Turn. Leave rem sts on a st holder. Dec 1 st at neck edge on next 3 rows. Cast o rem 17 (19-23) sts. With RS of work facing, join MC to rem sts and cast o next 26 (30-30) sts. Pat to end of row. Dec 1 st at neck edge on next 3 rows. Cast o rem 17 (19-23) sts. FRONT Work from ** to ** as given for Back. Cont even in pat until armhole measures 11⁄2″ [4 cm], ending with a WS row. V-Neck shaping: Next row: Pat 31 (35- 39) sts. Turn. Leave rem sts on a spare needle. Dec 1 st at V-neck edge on next 3 (3-1) row(s), then every alt row to 17 (19-23) sts. Cont even in pat until armhole measures same length as Back to shoulder, ending with a WS row. Cast o . With RS of work facing, join MC to rem sts. Cast o center 4 sts. Dec 1 st at V-neck edge on next 3 (3-1) row(s), then every alt row to 17 (19-23) sts. Cont even in pat until armhole measures same length as Back to shoulder, ending with a RS row. Cast o . SLEEVES With A and smaller needles, cast on 44 (50-56) sts. Next row: (WS). With A, knit. Next 2 rows: With MC, knit. Next 2 rows: With A, knit. Change to larger needles, MC, and proceed as follows: 1st row: (RS). *K2. Kfb. K2. Inc 1 st in next st. Rep from * to last 2 sts. K2. 58 (66-74) sts. 2nd row: Purl. 3rd row: (Work 1st row of Panel Pat) 7 (8- 9) times. P2. 4th row: Purl. 5th row: (Work 3rd row of Panel Pat) 7 (8- 9) times. P2. 6th row: As 4th row. Panel Pat is now in position. Cont in pat, keeping cont of Panel Pat, inc 1 st each end of needle on next and following 4th row, taking inc sts into garter st. Work 1 row even, thus ending with a WS row. 62 (70-78) sts. Cap shaping: Keep cont of pat, cast o 2 sts beg next 2 rows. Dec 1 st each end of needle on next 12 (14-16) rows. Cast o 2 sts beg next 6 rows. Cast o rem 22 (26-30) sts. FINISHING Pin garment pieces to measurements. Cover with a damp cloth leaving to dry. Sailor Collar With A and smaller needles, cast on 60 (66-72) sts. 1st row: (WS). With A, knit. 2nd row: With MC, ssk. Knit to last 2 sts. K2tog. 3rd row: With MC, knit. 4th row: With A, ssk. Knit to last 2 sts. K2tog. 5th row: With A, knit. 6th row: With MC, Sl1K. K1. psso. Knit to last 2 sts. K2tog. 54 (60-66) sts. Place markers at each end of row. Change to larger needles, MC, and beg with a purl row, proceed in stocking st until work from beg measures 41⁄2 (5-5)” [11.5 (12.5-12.5) cm], ending with a WS row. Next row: K12 (13-16). K2tog. Turn. Leave rem sts on a st holder. Next row: P2tog. Purl to end of row. Next row: Knit to last 2 sts. K2tog. Next row: Cast on 3 sts. Purl to end of row. 14 (15-18) sts. Tie shaping: 1st row: (RS). K1. ssk. Knit to end of row. 2nd row: Purl to last 3 sts. P2togtbl. P1. 3rd row: K1. ssk. Knit to last 2 sts. Kfb. K1. 4th row: As 2nd row. Rep last 4 rows 0 (1-1) time more. 11 (9- 12) sts. Proceed as follows: 1st row: (RS). K1. ssk. Knit to end of row. 2nd row: Purl. 3rd row: K1. ssk. Knit to last 2 sts. Kfb. K1. 4th row: Purl. Rep last 4 rows 5 (5-6) times more. 5 (3-5) sts. Work 4 rows even in stocking st. Cast o .

With RS of work facing, join yarn to rem sts. Cast o 26 (30-30) sts. Knit to end of row. Dec 1 st at neck edge on next 3 rows. 11 (12-15) sts. Next row: Cast on 3 sts. Knit to end of row. 14 (15-18) sts. Next row: Purl. Tie shaping: 1st row: (RS). Knit to last 3 sts. K2tog. K1. 2nd row: P1. P2tog. Purl to end of row. 3rd row: Kfb. Knit to last 3 sts. K2tog. K1. 4th row: As 2nd row. Rep last 4 rows 0 (1-1) time more. 11 (9- 12) sts. Proceed as follows: 1st row: (RS). Knit to last 3 sts. K2tog. K1. 2nd row: Purl. 3rd row: Kfb. Knit to last 3 sts. K2tog. K1. 4th row: Purl. Rep last 4 rows 5 (5-6) times more. 5 (3-5) sts. Work 4 rows even in stocking st. Cast o . Right side edge of Collar: With RS of work facing, smaller needles and A, pick up and knit 58 (61-64) sts from marker along right side of Collar. Next row: (WS). Cast on 15 sts. Knit to last 2 sts. Kfb. K1. Next row: With MC, Kfb. Knit to end of row. Next row: With MC, knit. Next row: With A, Kfb. Knit to end of row. Next row: With A, knit. Cast of. Left side edge of Collar: With RS of work facing, smaller needles and A, pick up and knit 58 (61-64) sts along left side of Collar to marker. Next row: (WS). Kfb. Knit to end of row. Turn. Cast on 15 sts. Next row: With MC, knit. Next row: With MC, Kfb. Knit to end of row. Next row: With A, knit. Next row: With A, Kfb. Knit to end of row. Cast o . Ring: With MC and smaller needles, cast on 3 sts. Proceed in stocking st for 2″ [5 cm]. Cast o . Sew cast on and cast o edges tog to form a ring. Inset: With MC, cast on 5 sts. 1st row: (RS). With MC, Kfb. Knit to last 2 sts. Kfb. K1. 2nd row: With MC, purl. 3rd row: With A, as 1st row. 4th row: With A, purl. Rep last 4 rows 3 times more. 21 sts. With MC, knit 3 rows. Cast o knitwise (WS). Sew back of Collar to Back neck edge. Sew front of Collar to V-neck edge, leaving Side Edge extensions loose. Insert Side Edge extensions into ring. Sew ring and inset in position to Front. Sew in sleeves. Sew side and sleeve seams. Using damp cloth, steam press pleats into position.

What I made!!! #2

IMG_0252.JPGIMG_0251Hello Dear Readers!!!

Well here I am again showing you another item I have made. This is again something for my moms birthday. I did not have a pattern for this I just made it up. I like figuring my own knitting patterns and writing them down.

So here it is yay! This time a made an eyeglass case! So pretty! I didn’t get the sides exactly the way I wanted so I’ll have to work on that one . I’m thinking of making all kinds of knitted or crocheted eyeglass cases and trying to sell them on Etsy. If you don’t know what Etsy is it’s a site where you can sell projects you have made yourself or antiques. It’s like Ebay only in some ways even better!

For this eyeglass case I used the large woven braid knit stitch. My next one I will be crocheting a basketweave stitch. To crochet the basketweave on smaller items is easier than trying to knit the basketweave….trust me haha. The next one will be done in 3 ply pink yarn and when I’m done with it I will again show you a picture.

If you think making these to sell online (Etsy, Ebay) is a good idea, please let me know. If you have suggestions or comments and if you think this is something you would buy yourself for around $15.00

So there you go and until next time!

~ Crafty Lady

P.S. It also makes a great iPhone case!

 

Brighter Days Crochet Pillows!!!!

IMG_1355What you will need: RED HEART® Super Saver®: Booster Pillow: 1 skein each of 324 Bright Yellow A; 390 Hot Red B; 321 Gold C; 254 Pumpkin D; 311 White E; and 706 Perfect Pink F. Star Pillow: 1 skein each of 324 Bright Yellow A; 390 Hot Red B; 321 Gold C; 254 Pumpkin D; 311 White E; and 706 Perfect Pink F GAUGE: 14 sts (1 repeat) = 31⁄2” (7.5 cm); 9 rows = 4” (10 cm) in Booster Pillow pattern. 10 sts = 4” (10 cm) in Star Pillow pattern. CHECK YOUR GAUGE. Use any size hook to obtain the gauge given.

What you need continued… Susan Bates® Crochet Hook: 5.5 mm [I-9 US]. Sewing needle and matching sewing thread Pom-pom maker, yarn needle, stitch markers Bolster Pillow: 18” (45.5 cm) long bolster pillow form Star Pillow: Polyfill stuffing. Bolster pillow measures 22” (56 cm) long x 18” (45.5 cm) around. Star Pillow measures 17” (43 cm) in diameter at widest point. Special Stitches single crochet 2 together (sc2tog): [Insert hook in next st, yarn over, draw yarn through st] twice, yarn over, draw yarn through 3 loops on hook. single crochet 3 together (sc3tog): [Insert hook in next st, yarn over, draw yarn through st] 3 times, yarn over, draw yarn through 4 loops on hook. Booster Pillow Color Sequence Work in the following color sequence throughout: *3 rounds each of A, B, C**, D, E, F; repeat from * once; repeat from * to ** once. Star Pillow Color Sequence Work in the following color sequence: 2 rows each of B, F, E, D, C, A. BOLSTER PILLOW Cover With A, ch 70 and without twisting ch, join into a ring with slip st in first ch. Round 1 (right side): Ch 1, sc in in each of first 5 ch, *3 sc in next ch, sc in each of next 5 ch, sc3tog over next 3 ch**, sc in each of next 5 ch; repeat from * around, ending last rep at **, join with slip st in first sc – 5 repeats. Round 2: Slip st in next sc, ch 1, sc in in each of first 5 sts, *3 sc in next sts, sc in each of next 5 sts, sc3tog over next 3 sts**, sc in each of next 5 sts; repeat from * around, ending last rep at **, join with slip st in first sc. Rounds 3-45: Repeat Round 2, in color sequence listed above. Fasten off. End Circle (make 2) With E, make an adjustable ring. Round 1: Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 13 hdc in ring; join with slip st in top of beginning ch-2 – 14 hdc. Round 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st around; join with a slip st in first sc – 28 sc. Round 3: Ch 1, sc in each st around; join with slip st in first sc. Round 4 Repeat Round 3. Round 5: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, *sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, [sc in next st, 2 sc in next st] twice; repeat from * around; join with a slip st in first sc – 40 sc. Round 6: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join with slip st, in first sc; join with a slip st in first sc. Round 7: Repeat round 6 Round 8: Ch 1, sc in each of next 3 sts, *2 sc in next st**, sc in next 3sts; rep from * aroud ending last repeat at **, join with a slip st in first sc – 50 sc. Fasten off. FINISHING With all 6 colors, make two 3” (7.5 cm) pompoms. Sew one pompom to center of each End Circle. With sewing needle and matching sewing thread, sew End Circles to ends of pillow form. Insert pillow form into Cover, with equal amounts of fabric extending over each end, tack Cover to End Circles.

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LW4630 Brighter Days Pillows Edging With wrong sides of two Cover Halves together, matching sts, working through double thickness, join D with slip st in center sc of any point, ch 1, 3 sc in center sc of point, *sc in each of next 10 sc, sc3tog over next 3 sts, sc in each of next 10 sts**, 3 sc in next st; repeat from * 4 times, stuff pillow with polyfill stuffing, repeat from * to ** once, join with slip st in first sc. Fasten off. Weave in ends. ABBREVIATIONS A, B, C, D, E, F = color A, B, C, D, E, F; ch = chain; hdc = half double crochet; sc = single crochet; st(s) = stitch(es); () = work directions in parentheses into same st; [ ] = work directions in brackets the number of times specified; * or ** = repeat whatever follows the * or ** as indicated. STAR PILLOW Cover Half (make 2) With B, ch 143. Row 1 (right side): Sc in 2nd ch from hook (place marker), sc in each of next 9 ch, *3 sc in next ch (peek made), sc in each of next 10 ch**, sc3tog over next 3 ch (valley made, place marker), sc in each of next 10 ch; repeat from * around, ending last repeat at ** (place marker in last st), turn – 6 peeks; 7 markers for 5 valleys and ends of row. Row 2: Ch 1, sc2tog over first 2 sts, sc in each of next 9 sts, *3 sc in next st, sc in each of next 10 sts**, sc3tog over next 3 sts, sc in each of next 10 sts; repeat from * across, ending last repeat at **, sc in each of next 9 sts. sc2tog over last 2 sts, turn. Fasten off B, leaving a sewing length, join F. Rows 3-12: Working in color sequence as listed above, Repeat Row 2. Fasten off, leaving a sewing length. Assembly *On wrong side, bring 2 markers of adjacent valleys together, with sewing needle and thread, sew foundation ch together from peek to valley point; repeat from * around, joining each section from peek to valley together forming 6 points. Sew center together. With matching sewing lengths, sew sides of Cover Half together across ends of rows. Sew other Cover Half in same manner.

Mae Flower Crochet Necklace

IMG_1354Mae Flower Necklace

Materials
Size 10 crochet cotton
1.65mm steel crochet hook
Approx. ½” shank button
Sewing needle
Beads and findings (optional)

Special stitch
Petal cluster: sl st in next sc, ch 3, dc in same sc, holding back last lp on hook (2 lps on hook), dc in next sc, holding back last lp on hook (3 lps on hook), yo, pull through 3 lps on hook, ch 3, sl st in same sc

Instructions
Large flower (make 1)
Rnd 1: Ch 6, sl st in first ch to form ring, ch 1, 12 sc in ring, join with sl st in beg sc, ch 1
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each of next 12 sc, join with sl st into beg sc (24 sc)
Rnd 3: 12 petal clusters around, fasten off, leaving at least a 6” tail
Small flower (make 2)
Rnd 1: Ch 6, sl st in first ch to form ring, ch 1, 12 sc in ring, join with sl st in beg sc, ch 1 (12 sc)
Rnd 2: 6 petal clusters around, fasten off, leaving a tail of at least 6”

Ring (make 33)
Rnd 1: Ch 6, sl st in first ch to form ring, ch 1, 12 sc in ring, join with sl st in beg sc, ch 1, fasten off, leaving a tail of at least a 6”
Large ring* (make 1)
Rnd 1: Ch 10, sl st in first ch to form ring, ch 1, 20 sc in ring, join with sl st in beg sc, ch 1, fasten off, leaving a tail of at least a 6”

Finishing
Using yarn tails, connect (sew) one ring to each side of the large flower, then connect one small flower to each ring as shown in the photos
Connect 16 rings to each small flower, using the large ring as the final ring on one side, sew button onto center of last ring on other side (not too tightly – leave enough room so that when buttoned, the large ring is sandwiched between the button and the small ring)

Attach bead(s) to large flower if desired

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*If you have a very small button, you can make a 34th small ring instead of the large ring. Just make sure you can push the button through one of the small rings.

Spiral Blosson Crochet Necklace!

IMG_1353Spiral Blossom
Design by Patricia Williams

It’s the season for proms, wedding and other dressy affairs, and this gorgeous, sparkling, silver shrug will top an elegant dress to glamorous perfection.

Skill Level
Easy

Finished Sizes
22 inches long

Materials

Pisgah Yarn and Dyeing Company, Inc. Peaches & Creme mercerized cotton size 10: 1 ball each 46 Rose, 467 Khaki Green and 66 Avocado
Size 9/1.25mm steel crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge
Tapestry needle
Sewing needle
Invisible nylon thread
13 yellow E beads
Gauge
5 sc = 1/2 inch; 6 sc rows = 1/2 inch

Pattern Notes

Weave in loose ends as work progresses.
Join rounds with a slip stitch unless otherwise stated.
Crochet tightly for best results.
Spiral

Row 1: With avocado, ch 200, sc in 16th ch from hook (for clasp), 2 sc in each ch across, turn.
Row 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each sc across, turn.
Row 3: Rep row 2.
Row 4: Sl st in each sc across, fasten off.
Rosette

Rnd 1: With rose, ch 5, sl st in first ch to form a ring, ch 4 (counts as first dc, ch-1), [1 dc in ring, ch 1] 7 times, join in 3rd ch of ch-4. (8 dc, 8 ch-1 sps)
Rnd 2: Sl st in next ch-1 sp, [sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc] in each ch-1 sp around, join in first sc. (8 petals)
Rnd 3: Working behind petals and around dc posts of rnd 1, ch 1, sc around first dc, ch 3, [sc around next dc of rnd 1, ch 3] 7 times, join in beg sc. (8 sc, 8ch-3 sps)
Rnd 4: Sl st in ch-3 sp, [sc, hdc, 4 dc, hdc, sc] in each ch-3 sp around, join in beg sc.
Rnd 5: Working behind petals and around sc posts of rnd 3, ch 1, sc around first sc, ch 4, [sc around next sc of rnd 3, ch 4] 7 times, join in beg sc.
Rnd 6: Sl st in next ch-4 sp, [sc, hdc, 6 dc, hdc, sc] in each ch-4 sp around, join in beg sc.
Rnd 7: Working behind petals and around sc posts of rnd 5, ch 1, sc around first sc, ch 5, [sc around next sc of rnd 5, ch 5] 7 times, join in beg sc.
Rnd 8: Sl st in next ch-5 sp, [sc, hdc, 8 dc, hdc, sc] in each ch-5 sp, join in beg sc.
Leaf
Make 2.

Row 1: With khaki green, ch 21, sc in 3rd ch from hook, sc in each of next 17 chs, 3 sc in last ch, working on opposite side of foundation ch, sc in each of next 16 chs, turn.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each of next 17 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in each of next 17 sc, turn.
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each of next 18 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in each of next 15 sc, turn.
Row 4: Ch 1, sc in each of next 16 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in each of next 16 sc, turn.
Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each of next 17 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in each of next 14 sc, turn.
Row 6: Ch 1, sc in each of next 15 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in each of next 14 sc, turn.
Row 7: Ch 1, sc in each of next 16 sc, sl st in same st as last sc, fasten off.
Ball

Rnd 1: With avocado, ch 2, 8 sc in 2nd ch from hook, join in first sc. (8 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each sc around, join in first sc. (16 sc)
Rnds 3–6: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, join in first sc.
Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc in first sc, sk next sc, sc in next sc, sk next sc] 7 times, join in first sc, leaving an 8-inch length of cotton, fasten off. Stuff Ball firmly with length of avocado, with rem ending, sew opening closed and sew Ball to end of spiral.
Finishing

With invisible nylon thread, sew 13 yellow E beads to the center of Rosette. Sew each Leaf to back of Rosette. Sew Rosette to center of Spiral.